Aswat Asharq Al-Awsat :

Aswat Asharq Al-Awsat : Moschino Literally Shreds the Fashion Rules on First Day of Milan Fashion Week

 A model wears a creation as part of the Moschino Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Friday, June 14, 2024. (AP)
A model wears a creation as part of the Moschino Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Friday, June 14, 2024. (AP)
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Moschino Literally Shreds the Fashion Rules on First Day of Milan Fashion Week

 A model wears a creation as part of the Moschino Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Friday, June 14, 2024. (AP)
A model wears a creation as part of the Moschino Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Friday, June 14, 2024. (AP)

Milan Fashion Week reserved for mostly menswear previews opened Friday with two co-ed collections, underlining that the old calendar rules no longer apply.

The week features just 20 runway shows, which should allow time for reflection on where fashion is headed. Moschino opened with a show combining menswear for next summer and women’s 2025 resort, followed by Canadian designer Dsquared2 with a full menswear and womenswear collection.

Highlights from Friday's show:

LOST AND FOUND AT MOSCHINO

Adrian Appiolaza took the rules and literally shredded them in his second season as Moschino creative director.

“The idea of freedom of expression through dressing is what I want to bring to the future of Moschino, which is tied to the original DNA,” Appiolaza said backstage. “It is not about nationality. It’s really about feeling comfortable, dressing the way you want and not the way you should.”

The Argentine designer reads our collective minds as the summer season beckons in the northern hemisphere, tapping desires to break free from the office routine and reach dream destination. Along the way, daydreams take over, and familiar objects shift.

Appiolaza creates a shimmery tank out of big paperclips. A jacket is covered in textile post-its of forgotten tasks. Another becomes the office worker’s survival jacket, with slots for pens, a note pad, credit cards, ID badge, charging cables, nothing is concealed; this later becomes an adventure jacket with field guides and a magnifying glass.

Suits and trenches are deconstructed into dresses. Then they are shredded, as if to say: Enough. The last straw: An airliner perched on a hat. Then a literal straw skirt.

There is release in safari wear, a beach pareo, skirts that work as postcards, knitwear emblazoned with a soccer ball pattern, a blazer printed with still life of an Italian table: ripe tomatoes, a Chianti bottle and bread, worn with a fraying skirt over trousers.

The collection confidently taps the fashion house’s ironic and playful DNA, with fresh and irreverent twists sure to inspire smiles. A suit shirt comes ready with an ink spot. A sparkly pizza smudge graces a tank, worn with an Italian tri-color skirt emblazoned with soccer balls. Men’s brimmed hats are worn in triplicate, as if resized and multiplied by a fashion copy machine.

“They are all explorers, these characters, on a journey of self-discovery,” Appiolaza said.



Aswat Asharq Al-Awsat : Hugo Boss Cuts Full Year Sales Guidance over Weaker Demand in China, UK

FILE PHOTO: Mens clothing are on display at the Boss store in London, Britain, May 30, 2024. REUTERS/Chris J. Ratcliffe/File Photo
FILE PHOTO: Mens clothing are on display at the Boss store in London, Britain, May 30, 2024. REUTERS/Chris J. Ratcliffe/File Photo
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Hugo Boss Cuts Full Year Sales Guidance over Weaker Demand in China, UK

FILE PHOTO: Mens clothing are on display at the Boss store in London, Britain, May 30, 2024. REUTERS/Chris J. Ratcliffe/File Photo
FILE PHOTO: Mens clothing are on display at the Boss store in London, Britain, May 30, 2024. REUTERS/Chris J. Ratcliffe/File Photo

German fashion house Hugo Boss on Monday cut its sales guidance for the year to a range of between 4.20 billion euros ($4.58 billion) to 4.35 billion euros over weakening global consumer demand especially in markets like China and the UK.
The company earlier expected sales for the year at around 4.30 billion to 4.45 billion euros.
Hugo Boss said that it expects operating profit (EBIT) to be around 350 million euros to 430 million euros, down from its previously communicated guidance of around 430 million euros to 475 million euros.
This is the second time this year that Hugo Boss has cut its sales guidance.
The company had previously also flagged in its first quarter results weaker demand in China and concerns about the US consumer sentiment ahead of presidential elections, causing shares to slump to their lowest since 2022.
The German fashion house also said that its preliminary second-quarter sales declined by 1% to 1.02 billion euros. Its operating profit (EBIT) in the period amounted to 70 million euros on a preliminary basis.
The premium apparel brand has been on an expansion mission, and has been increasing marketing spend and opening 102 new points of sale in 2023, but its shares have fallen this year as it warned of slower sales growth.
World's biggest watchmaker Swatch reported a steep drop in first half sales and earnings earlier on Monday as demand for luxury goods in China remained weak, Burberry also issued a profit warning and scrapped its dividend payment for the year as well.